Interview with Gaëtan Fiard: ‘I’ve gone against the regional current.’

When Gaëtan Fiard speaks about his culinary approach at the five-star Grand Hôtel InterContinental in Bordeaux, there’s a quiet conviction in his voice that reveals a chef who isn’t afraid to challenge conventions. As head pastry chef managing a team of 12, he has chosen paths that break from regional expectations, creating a distinctive identity in one of France’s most storied culinary regions.

Stepping into Gaëtan Fiard’s world means entering a space where high gastronomy meets the rhythm of city life. When asked about how working in a vibrant urban environment has influenced his culinary approach, Fiard’s passion is immediately apparent. ‘In the city, we had to adapt to a faster pace of life. People are in a hurry, yet still want quality,’ Fiard explains. ‘This led us to develop a finger food concept that allows customers to choose three small sandwiches for 10 euros. They’re specifically designed not to leak or create a mess, so customers can eat them while walking or on the go.’ This pragmatic approach extends to his sweet offerings as well. ‘For the sweet section, we focus on practical finger food like brownies and madeleines. The key is avoiding anything messy – like crumbs, caramel sauces and the like that might end up on your shirt.’

What truly sets Fiard’s approach apart is his deliberate decision to depart from what might be expected in Bordeaux’s culinary landscape. ‘Together with our owner, I’ve actually gone against the regional current,’ he says with an unmistakable hint of pride. ‘Rather than focusing on traditional ham sandwiches common in the region, we emphasize seafood and plant-based ingredients. We work a lot with salmon, tuna and various egg preparations.’ This bold departure reflects Fiard’s philosophy about modern culinary identities. By adding unexpected elements like wasabi to familiar dishes, he’s created a distinctive style that resonates with a diverse audience. ‘These are small, clearly defined accents that can appeal broadly without being too experimental,’ Fiard explains. ‘We remain true to our identity while adding just enough originality.’ Fiard emphasizes the importance of refreshing the menu for regular customers: ‘For those who visit twice weekly, we need to offer variety. They appreciate having their favourites available but also enjoy discovering new options.’

For Fiard, his hands are his most essential tools. ‘My hands create what I conceive. They are like my tools, translators of what inspires me from within. First, they write down all the things I’ve thought of – for a specific season or a local product. Then they get to work turning my ideas into a finished product.’ This craftsman’s approach demands consistency and precision. ‘At this level, we have to produce the exact same thing every day. For this, we need the same preparations and the same textures. It’s complicated because when dealing with seasonal ingredients, you face natural variations. If a pear is not cooked through because it wasn’t ripe, you need to cook it for longer. Every day we make these kinds of adjustments to maintain consistency.’ In such situations, relying on trustworthy ingredients becomes crucial. ‘The emulsion used in the chocolate and Espelette pepper dessert is delicate. If you don’t shake the siphon long enough, it will remain too liquid. But if you shake it too long, the emulsion becomes grainy. To get it just perfect, you need skilled hands as well as reliable basic products.’