Brewing traditions, cooking innovations

Marie Koopman, head chef at restaurant ’t Rusteel, comes from a family that has beer and hospitality in their DNA. The restaurant in Gullegem, Belgium forms one part of a unique family enterprise alongside Brouwerij Gulden Spoor. With a heritage stretching back generations and a focus on fresh, from-scratch cooking combined with craft beer expertise, Marie has created a special place where family values and culinary passion come together. How does she balance tradition with innovation in today’s fast-changing restaurant scene?

The story of Restaurant ’t Rusteel and Brouwerij Gulden Spoor begins four generations ago, with Marie’s greatgrandmother. ‘It all started with my great-grandmother on my father’s side, who owned a farm,’ Marie explains. ‘My grandparents took over and transformed the barn into a place where people could gather for a beer. It was essentially a clubhouse.’ That modest beginning evolved naturally, growing from a café to a casual eatery and eventually into the brasserie it is today. ‘My grandfather initiated the business because my father was too young to run a café. We offered 300 different beers at the time. What began as a hobby gradually expanded – from café to restaurant, to brasserie, and it continues to evolve. There are still many things we want to do and try.’
When Marie’s father was old enough, he and her mother took over the business. ‘My mother jumped right in, giving it 100%. She took charge of the kitchen, but she was really an all-rounder. She did everything behind the scenes and even served beers in the evening when my father wasn’t around.’

In the kitchen, Marie has developed a philosophy that combines respect for classic Belgian cuisine with creative touches that keep the menu fresh and exciting. ‘I believe in making everything from scratch – all our sauces, dressings, and even croquettes. It takes more time, but you can taste the difference.’
Marie sees value in quality bases like Debic products alongside her from-scratch approach. ‘They have many products that provide a helpful foundation. When the base is right, you can add your own touches to it,’ she explains.
This balance allows her to maintain quality while still expressing her creativity in the kitchen. When discussing her culinary style, Marie describes it as ‘free and exploratory’ but with a strong foundation in familiar, authentic dishes. ‘Our customers typically seek recognizable dishes. Classic Belgian cuisine remains popular, and we embrace that tradition while adding our own creative touches.’

Today, Marie works alongside her brother Pieter, who has taken the family's beer brewing from a garage hobby to a full-fledged craft brewery next to the restaurant. ‘My father developed an interest in making his own beer. It began as a hobby in the garage and evolved until we built a new brewery beside the restaurant. My brother has completely taken it over and caught the beer bug too. He does everything independently now – from sales to brewing, social media, accounting, everything.’
‘I’m incredibly fortunate to be able to work with my family,’ Marie says with obvious pride. ‘Working with family is truly a luxury. Many people say it's difficult to work with parents or family members. I’ll be honest – it’s not always easy. But when you have a disagreement, you can just talk about it. You know each other inside out. And then it quickly blows over. Yes, that's what makes it so easy.’
This family spirit extends beyond blood relations. ‘Our staff feels like an extended family. Many have been with us for years, and we don’t experience the staff shortages that are common in the industry. Former student workers often return to work with us later. I think it’s because we create a warm, welcoming environment where people feel valued.’

The unique aspect of Marie’s culinary work is the close collaboration with her brother’s brewery. ‘Beer finds its way into our kitchen in various ways. We use it in marinades, reductions, sauces, and desserts like sabayon. I often work with my brother to find the perfect pairings between our dishes and his beers.’
This collaboration leads to special menu items that showcase the Gulden Spoor beers. ‘My brother’s Double beer works beautifully in the fudge for my cheesecake.’
Marie and her brother regularly discuss flavour profiles and experiment with new combinations. ‘Sometimes I’ll taste a new beer he’s developing and immediately think of a dish it would complement. Other times, I’ll create a dish and ask him to recommend the perfect beer match. It’s a continuous creative dialogue.’

1. Embrace your heritage but don’t be limited by it. Traditional recipes can be your starting point for culinary innovation.
2. Look for local partnerships with producers who share your values. Our relationships with local farmers and suppliers ensure we get the best seasonal ingredients.
3. Create a family atmosphere, whether you’re actually working with family or not. A positive kitchen environment translates to better food and service.
4. Keep your social media in-house. Outsourcing can dilute your voice – authenticity comes from telling your own story.
5. Explore non-alcoholic options. Guests want creative, alcohol-free drinks that feel just as special as a cocktail.